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[First Bite] Kirillitsa – Russian Fine Dining at the Bund City Hall

First Bite is a SmartShanghai column profiling new restaurants, bars, and other new places we find interesting. Sometimes we stumble upon these places, and sometimes we are invited, but in both cases, we are never paid to write an opinion, rather, these are our honest first impressions, and not a formal review.
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BY TONI VENTURA | SmSh Contributer
Spanish F&B lifer who’s been on the supply side of Shanghai’s restaurant scene for years. Knows who's opening, closing, and who's changing chefs before the press release goes out.

There aren't many Russian restaurants in Shanghai. Even fewer have survived more than a few winters. Kirillitsa is one of the first venues to open at Bund City Hall, the massive new F&B complex in the old civic building on the Bund. It's doing elevated Russian food in an elegant, minimalist space, split between a casual front room and a quieter, fine dining back section.

The chef, Evgeny Vikentiv, trained in Spain and Italy and cooked in Saint Petersburg and Berlin. He's part of a new generation of Russian chefs trying to move beyond clichés—blini, borscht, beef stroganoff—and into something more refined, but still recognizable. The menu mixes Soviet-era comfort food (vinaigrette salad, Pozharsky cutlet) with modern plating, good produce, and a few odd flexes, like a Napoleon cake with truffle.

Tasting menus and à la carte both available. A strong, thoughtful wine list rounds out the offering. Expect to spend upwards of RMB 1,200 per head with wine, which is... ambitious, but the execution mostly holds up.

Quietly stylish, a little unexpected, and definitely the nicest place in town to eat beetroot salad.

See what else is new: Here's our constantly updated list of newly opened restaurants in Shanghai.

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