Shanghai has long been a hotbed for the jazz scene - a thriving blend of the old and the new - 1920s and 1930s nostalgia rubbing shoulders against a bustling modern metropolis and the sounds that come with it - Latin, Funk, R&B. Like much of the live music scene it ebbs and flows with the times (and the economy) - but even when the chips are down — the sound of jazz is pulsating in the veins of the city. So we believe it's only fair to give the jazz scene its due and highlight some of the venues and events every month here at SmartShanghai.
JZ Club
An institute of the jazz scene in China - JZ Club has continued to keep the flame alit at their new home in Hengshan 8. Refined, spacious, classy space. And shows just about every night of the week - and often two shows in a single night - the first starting at 7:30 and the second at 9:30. Reserve a table, grab a booth, and take in some of the city's best jazz musicians as well as a berth of top-notch international acts.
In March, the biggest bill is certainly LA-based pianist, producer, and composer John Carroll Kirby (March 20th), whose influence has extended across genres and collaborators such as Solange, Frank Ocean, and Norah Jones. Other highlights include Paris five-piece fusion jazz collective OXYD (March 25th) not afraid let influences like Sonic Youth or Radiohead bleed into their work - and Alvaro Cardenas Jr's Zorro's Tequila Vol.2 (March 7th) - which finds the saxophonist mining the passion of Spanish jazz.
Jazz at Lincoln Center
Right in the hustle and bustle of West Nanjing Road Dark, Jazz at Lincoln Center Shanghai is a more tourist-friendly, nevertheless chic jazz lounge exported from the New York institution. Cozy table set-ups with more open seating and a mezzanine wrapping around the main area. No fuss set menus, food, and drinks are served, and a robust calendar of shows and two-night residences from an eclectic range of musicians. I once saw a Chinese customer argue with someone playing the Afghan rubab cause he thought his playing was too rudimentary - so I guess expect some of the more unhinged and arrogant jazz aficionados of the scene in attendance.
Highlights this month include the album release of Reny Bao (March 13th-14th), hailed as one of the very few local saxophonists who steadfastly uphold the traditions of Bebop and Hard Bop, and the Balawan Quartet (March 28th) from Indonesia, who craft genre-defying soundscapes where Balinese roots meet jazz improvisation, rock energy, and ambient electronica. Also, don't sleep on Philadelphia-born Andy Tubman (April 6th), lead singer and songwriter of The Jane Doe's and certified music therapist.
Heyday
Heyday - located a stone's throw from the swarth of tourists douyining with the Wukang Building - is the kind of place you want to keep to yourself. It's a small, intimate space, one that very much looks to capture the vibe of 1920s Shanghai. Reservations are recommended. Open six nights a week - with the early part of the week leaning toward two-handers (i.e piano and singer) while the weekend the full band jumps into action alongside touring acts.
Chair Club
Chair Club has a looser, more lived-in vibe to its setting, located off Yuyao Lu in the F&B hub of Tongle Fang. It's very much a place that musicians hang out when they're not on the clock, and their Monday jam nights hosted by Denise have become the thing of legend - a who's who of the jazz, blues, and fusion scene. The rest of the week is packed with themed nights (R&B, soul, blues) featuring seasoned regulars like Sandra, Giovani, Kevin Maxim, and Smokey.
And Also ...
Closer to the Bund, and thus more appealing to tourists and people travelers looking to get a taste of the scene without venturing too far from their hotel, House of Blues and Jazz and Peace Hotel have you covered. House of Blues and Jazz has plenty of rustic charm - and hosts various residency bands and musicians each month, six days a week - such as Yiko & Hombres every Thursday night. Meanwhile, Peace Hotel is old school vibes through and through, home to Peace Hotel Old Jazz Band,who hold a Guinness World Record as the oldest performing jazz band in the world (with an average age of 82). Pricier for sure, but if you're hosting visiting friends itching to indulge in that nostalgia jazz aura, then you can't do better.
Elsewhere, you can find pockets of jazz activity in long-standing establishments like the low-key and charming Time Passage, off of Huashan Lu, which has been operating since 1994, and hosts live bands on the weekends. OKOK - the basement speakeasy located beneath the live houses of Bandai Namco - has become another unsung hero of the scene with shows nearly five nights a week - ranging from fusion jazz to down and dirty rock and roll. Their shows usually devolve into passionate jam nights, with sometimes the talent from above (such as Cory Wong) putting on an impromptu after-hours show. Finally, keep your eyes peeled for places like contemporary art gallery Fotografiska - where gallery ticket holders can be entertained by live jazz every Wednesday night - and bar/restaurant Cotton's, who take advantage of their beautiful space a couple of times each week.
Whether you're eyeing romantic date night or trying to find a new partner to jam with, you just gotta put yourself out there and jump into the scene with no expectations. Every place has got its own flavor - so taste around and find what tickles your palette.
