The weather has turned which means the crabs are getting fat and it’s time to eat them. A pest in the Thames
, the Chinese hairy crab is an expensive delicacy here, and Shanghai is the epicenter of hairy crab consumption. If you haven’t indulged in or fiddled with hairy crabs before, it’s really something you should do, not for the meat, which is scarce, but for the rich orange roe of the females, which is reminiscent of sea urchin. Unless you prefer the gao
of the males which is actually, well… ask your friends. Anyway! Where to go! Here’s two options.